Surfing is Sick

Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.
— Buzzy Trent

Today I surfed. It was awesome. I surfed huge one. 

We are going to get me a short board. It looks like this.



There is a small river with alligators in it but none in the ocean.  It is a estuary.  My friend was surfing and it took him in it and everyone said he’s gonna die but he didn’t.